But Mustang is only the most recent of Bob's inspirations. Ladakh
(part of India's northermost state) with a Buddhist culture, architecture,
and forbidding landscape not unlike Mustang's occupied him for some time
and since settling in Kathmandu in the 1980s his inspiration has been the
art and culture of the engaging Kathmandu Valley. In delicate drawings and
paintings Powell has recorded not only ancient murals and the exquisite
woodcarvings of the temples and monasteries, but has unerringly captured
the whimsy of daily life. To see the
In delicate drawings and paintings
Powell
has recorded not only ancient murals and
the exquisite woodcarvings of the temples
and monasteries, but has unerringly captured
the whimsy of daily life.
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latter, some now available in posters, such
as Radish Transport or Painted Goats, is to smile. Powell's creativity also
embraces the richness of Nepali handmade paper which he transmutes into
stunning stationery designs for use by UNICEF and, for his personal use,
incredible lamps that outdo Noguchi. But it is only the newly-minted Mustang
paintings that will be exhibited beginning December. Some not already snapped
up by knowing collectors will be for sale.
Sharing the spotlight with Powell's paintings are the superb photographs
by Thomas Laird whose talent in his chosen medium is no less formidable
than Bob's. Laird is a forty-two year old American ethnographer and journalist-photographer,
a twenty-year resident of Kathmandu, whose work has appeared in leading
publications worldwide: National Geographic, Natural History, Time, Geo,
Stern, Elle and many others. He is also the Nepal correspondent for the
Times/Warner news weekly, AsiaWeek. He holds the distinction of being the
first Westerner to enter Mustang on its opening in 1991 - no brief encounter
either. He stayed for a year to create in some 50,000 photographs the largest
and most comprehensive photo archive of Mustang ever made or likely to be
made. Some hundred and fifty of them appear in East of Lo Manthang: In
the Land of Mustang (Shambala Publications, 1995), prepared jointly
with Peter Mathiessen. Out of the 50,000 that leaves plenty over for the
Mustang photo and painting exhibition.
The works of both artists will be displayed in the corridors of
the newly restored Keshav Narayan quadrangle, part of the seventeenth-century
royal palace fronting the Patan Darbar Square. Restored through the joint
efforts of His Majesty's Government and Austria by way of the Institute
for International Cooperation, the quadrangle will soon become the home
of the Patan Museum, an ambitious undertaking planned as a model of modern
museology in so far as it can be achieved in the Third World. With the occasional
help of specialists from the Arthur M. Sackler Gallery and Freer Gallery
of Art, the Smithsonian Institution's twinned museums of Asian art in Washington,
D.C., a judicious selection for exhibition has been culled from more than
fifteen-hundred objects in storage. On exhibit will be cast bronzes and
gilt repoussé sculptures from Nepal and Tibet, a few rare Buddhist
images from India, selected domestic and ritual objects, together with a
few stone sculptures and inscribed stele, an assembly spanning approximately
the ninth to the twentieth century. Also on display will be a remarkable
hoard of dated and inscribed gilt repoussé images discovered more
than twenty years ago but never before accessible to the public.
The Patan Museum is envisioned less as a museum of art than as an
interpretive center for bewildered tourist and Nepali alike in their encounters
with the plethora of singular objects and images which, beginning just outside
the museum's door, abound in the Kathmandu Valley. Because of its palace
setting the museum will also afford visitors an opportunity to actually
enter one of these medieval buildings, heretofore viewed only from the outside,
and which in Patan and the sister mini-kingdoms of Kathmandu and Bhaktapur,
once housed kings. Among the many copiously labeled objects projected for
display none will surely elicit more interest than the gilt throne fashioned
for a Patan king in 1666 but vacant since the conquest of the Kathmandu
Valley by the Shah dynasty which erupted out of the western hills in 1768.
Flanked
by two pairs of gilt copper trees, the Patan throne is supported by paired
lions and elephants, between which is Garuda, sunbird companion and mount
of Vishnu. Illustrating the belief that Nepali kings are Vishnu incarnate,
the enthroned king borne on the outstretched wings of Garuda replicated
the ubiquitous images of the Garuda-borne Vishnu which have embellished
the Kathmandu Valley since at least the fourth century A.D. Nepal's reigning
king, Birendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev, is also conceived as Vishnu incarnate
and is said to sit on a Garuda-borne throne.
The Patan throne is made doubly interesting by the curious inscription
coursing above the Garuda image. Dated in accordance with 1666, the lines
read:
"May it be good. On Thursday, the eighth day of the waxing moon of
[the month of] Sravana [in the Nepal Era] 787, His Majesty King Srinivasa
Malla was offered an alms bowl and a golden throne attached with kadamba
trees [Neulea orientalis]. Anybody can hire this throne on payment of two
rupees to the families of the coppersmith and carpenter. Let it be auspicious."
The museum authorities have not yet reached a decision whether to honor
the rental offer. But who at this price would not like to be king for a
day on such a throne?
The Patan Museum is unlikely to open before the end of 1996 but meanwhile
the ocher-plastered walls and roseate floor tiles of the long, corridor-like
galleries of the palace provide a sympathetic setting for the temporary
exhibition of the work of these two talented artists, the photojournalist,
Thomas Laird and the self-effacing artist Bob Powell. There could be no
better way to spend your Christmas check than hopping over to catch this
show. You must make haste, however. Just opened by Nepal's Prime Minister,
Sher Bahadur Deuba, it is expected to close before Christmas.
While you are in Kathmandu you might also want to visit the Indigo
Gallery (also represented in Asian Arts) located in an attractive
setting not far from the current royal palace in Kathmandu. Its offerings
are proof that despite the horrendous contemporary architecture that so
compromises the traditional urban integrity of the Kathmandu Valley, and
the trashy "bronzes" and paintings in the curio shops, the Nepalese
creative spirit is still very much alive and well. The bronzes confected
by such skilled artists as Siddhi Raj and Jagat Man Shakya are made by the
same techniques and in the same small workshops as they were a millennium
and more ago and can often hold their own against earlier masterpieces.
The Nepalese paintings on cloth to be found at Indigo (properly known as
paubha but usually, Tibetan-fashion, labeled thanka) are also of extremely
high quality though even the best do not achieve the bliss of the great
Nepalese paintings of the past that are now the pride of private collectors
and museums around the world. Indigo Gallery is operated by another expatriate,
James Giambrone, whose patronage has been a fundamental catalyst in reviving
the art of the bronze caster and painter. Although a few cents will get
you to either Patan Darbar or Indigo Gallery by taxi you miss the thrill
of threading the old streets on foot and the marvelous chance encounters
with the mystifying art and culture of Nepal. By this time next year, so
it is planned, the permanent exhibit devoted to Nepalese art and culture
will replace the exhibition of photographs and paintings now showing in
the old royal palace. Obviously, one visit to Nepal will not be enough.
© Mary Shepherd Slusser and Asianart.com
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