Mughal Ruby Necklace
North India
17th /early 18th century
diameter 37cm approx
width 1.5cm (floral rosette)
width 2.8cm (pendant)
depth 0.3cm

A very fine ruby and diamond necklace with enamel on the reverse. The necklace is made up of 21 flexible floral rosettes set with gem quality rubies in gold. A pendant of rubies as a stylized larger rosette with an emerald drop hangs from the centre of the necklace. The middle of each rosette and the pendant are set with protruding pyramid diamonds. This conical type of faceted diamond is found only in early Indian jewellery and is hence indicative of the early date of this piece. (Protruding pyramid diamonds were mounted in Roman rings from the first through to the third centuries C.E. as talismans for good luck). The reverse is enamelled with stylized floral rosettes in red, white, blue and green and an unusual coral pink, mirroring the image on the front. The central pendant in enamelled in red, blue, green and white with a peacock in its full glory.